Etosha Pan: Four Landscapes

Etosha Pan - a salt pan which lies like a vast silver sea at the heart of Namibia's premier wildlife reserve - is hard to describe. Shimmering, lifeless, it stretches out to the horizon and reaches into the sky - until suddenly you see a troop of oryx plodding silently across it, way off in the [...]

Battle of the titans

The viewing site at Etosha's Halali camp is built into a rocky crag, with the cliff at your back and the Moringa waterhole below. You look down upon an arena, or theatre, with the evening sun in your eyes, until the light begins to fade and the orange glow of the floodlights comes on. Trundling down the path [...]

Sunset, Okaukuejo

Day One in Etosha ended as it had begun, back at the Okaukuejo camp. The camps in the park, run by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, were comfortable and clean, though not always well maintained, and the staff, I regret to say, were for the most part graduates of the Soviet school of hospitality - surly, unhelpful, [...]

A citizen of Canada

One hundred and twenty five people, from thirty four countries, assembled at 8 a.m. in a courtroom in Mississauga yesterday to take the oath and receive their Canadian citizenship. The presiding judge had come as a child as an immigrant from Pakistan; the clerk of the court was from Jamaica. Waiting to be sworn in were men, [...]

The Road to Okondeka

The road to Okondeka runs west from the Okaukuejo camp, the main rest camp in Namibia's fabulous Etosha wildlife reserve. You head out across open plains, waving with grasses, and then the salt pan comes into view on your right, a silver, lunar sea that runs to the horizon. A haze of heat and dust [...]

Like a bird

After the wedding, R&R in the Cederberg.... One form of relaxation, embraced by some of the younger set, was flight - more specifically, taking to the skies with one of South Africa's top aerobatic pilots, and threading through the valleys of the Cederberg practically at ground level, following the contours, buzzing the camp rooftops and [...]