Circumnavigating La Mezquita in Cordoba

Circumnavigating La Mezquita in Cordoba

La Mezquita simply takes possession of old Cordoba: vast, sprawling, the Christian cathedral emerging from the ribs of the Moorish Mosque, its bulk and presence are unignorable. It's a good idea to circumnavigate before you enter: wander the surrounding streets, catch glimpses of the spire from narrow alleyways or see it from up high, from [...]

Small-town Andalucia

Small-town Andalucia

Small-town Andalucia - those slightly run-down settlements you find on the road from Granada to Cordoba, for instance, places that are not on the tourist route, that are a little hard-scrabble, impoverished - still surprise, with their Moorish keeps, their sense of history. But it is a pre-democracy Spain you sense here - the Spain [...]

Flamenco at the Restaurant Cinque in Ronda

Flamenco at the Restaurant Cinque in Ronda

In Sevilla we heard, live on stage, in a modern, airy, wood-panelled auditorium, the fabulous flamenco guitarist Paco Jarana: a wonderful masterclass that blew us both away. To see flamenco dancing, however, we went to Ronda, to the Restaurant Cinque on the Paseo Blas Infante - a small, dark stage, with three red chairs for the [...]

Olvera, Spain – the Iglesia de la Encarnation

Olvera, Spain – the Iglesia de la Encarnation

Olvera, one of the 'white towns' or pueblos blancos of Andalucia, is dominated, as you will have seen in my earlier post, by a massive church-on-a-hill, the Iglesia de la Encarnacion.  The building itself is in need of some maintenance, but its setting is magnificent, and its brooding presence over the white town below it [...]

Men of Olvera

Men of Olvera

We drove up the steep hill into Olvera, one of the 'white towns' or pueblos blancos of Andalucia; parked, climbed higher, to the monumental bulk of the Iglesia de la Encarnacion from where we could look across to the Moorish Keep on a rocky outcrop opposite; looked out over the roofs into the streets below [...]

Look out for my next post – Olvera, Andalucia

Look out for my next post – Olvera, Andalucia

We took the road via Setenil from Ronda before joining up with the A384 en route to Granada. The back roads took us through rugged, heat-seared, spectacular country, dotted with little white towns with Olvera, pictured, offering dramatic views as we approached. Needless to say, we drove up into the town, parked, and explored. We [...]